Sleep While You Save The World

Barcelona / Go Sleep
en af Martin Tønner /  Martin Tønner, 23. jul 2009


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

The people behind Casa Camper would like to save the world. Not that they make a big fuss about it, but whenever possible they try to teach a lesson on healthy lifestyle to the guests at their hotel.

Next to the elevators a big sign reminds that you get more exercise using the stairs. Hammocks installed in the rooms invite you to take a break.


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

“We also removed the TV to stop people from watching stupid series in bed instead of getting a good nights sleep. But too many complained so we put them back,” explains Miquel Fluxà, heir to the mallorcan shoe-dynasty Camper that owns the hotel.


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

A pragmatic attitude that makes you feel at home at Casa Camper whether you have seen the light or not, along with the cool and welcoming design.

Each guest has an entire mini lounge at his disposal. In the bedroom warm and red colours provide a cave-like atmosphere and bathroom-views of the ‘vertical garden’ in the patio almost makes you forget that the hotel is placed in central Barcelona.


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

Access to a 24-hour open buffet with organic food is included in the room rate as is free use of the hotel’s bicycles.

“This is not a NGO. We are doing business here but at the same time trying to introduce the guests to our values. Then they can take it or leave it,” explains Miquel Fluxà. Seems fair enough.

CASA CAMPER, C/ Elisabets, 11. Metro: Plaça Catalunya.

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Martin Tønner

Vamos A La Playa

Barcelona / Go See
en af Martin Tønner /  Martin Tønner, 30. jun 2009


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm 

I used to live in a small flat at La Barceloneta. During the recurrent heat waves of the Spanish summer it often got so hot that I had to sleep with my head out on the balcony to be able to breath. On nights like that the best idea was to get out of ‘bed’ and walk down to the nearby beach.

A smooth sea breeze would embrace me and I would sit down in the sand with a beer watching the anglers with their long poles or reading a book in the light from the lampposts until it got cold enough to sleep.


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

Some people still mourn the traditional stall restaurants that covered the Barceloneta beach before the Olympic Games of 1992. I’m sure they were great but so are the four kilometres of playas left by the reforms and unmatched by any other European city.


Photo by Thomas Vilhelm

Also because beach life in Barcelona includes a lot more than the obvious swimming, sunbathing and ‘girlspotting’. You’ll see old men play domino, cards or a local variety of tennis hitting the ball directly with their hands. Others work out, fly kites, surf or play volleyball. And yet others prefer to watch it all from one of the many beach bars.

If you like swimming but hate sand try the sea baths at the northern end of the beaches.

Metro: Any station on the yellow line from Barceloneta to Selva de Mar.

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Martin Tønner

The Best Botifarras In Town

Barcelona / Go Eat
en af Martin Tønner /  Martin Tønner, 19. apr 2009


Feeding the pigeons on Plaça Catalunya Photo: Serge Melki

My first flat in Barcelona seemed like a real bargain. Overlooking central Plaça Catalunya it was not only big but also fairly cheap. I soon found out why. Situated in the ground cero of Barcelona’s hottest shopping area it was a daily struggle to get out of the front door without being swept away by mad flocks of tourists and locals in pursuit of a new pair of shoes.


Bar Kasparo on Plaça Vicenç Martorell Photo: Oriol Lladó

I lasted less than a year in the flat. But before moving on to a more genuine neighbourhood I discovered a few nice and nearby places. Carrer Tallers is a paradise for people old-fashioned enough to still buy their music in shops. Bar Boadas in the same street makes brilliant cocktails. And the cafés on Plaça Vicenç Martorell are surprisingly quiet and perfect for hanging out.

But if I defy my shopping phobia and pay a visit to my old ‘barrio’ as often as possible it is mainly because of Julivert Meu. The main attraction of this old style Catalan restaurant situated on Carrer Bonsuccés 7 is the botifarra amb mongetes. Made out 'real' meat and fried along side with white beans, garlic and parsley, this tasty sausage is the national dish of Catalonia and difficult to find better cooked than here. Side orders like tomato bread and a few of the red bell peppers known as pimiento de piquillo, marinated and slightly spicy are also highly recommendable.

The botifarra served at Julivert Meu is the classical no nonsense version. They come with all sorts of stuffing, though, mixing minced pork with cheese, mushrooms, almonds and cuttlefish among other surprising ingredients. You can also try them out at one of central Barcelona’s best delicatessen, La botifarreria de Santa María on Carrer de Santa María 4.

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Martin Tønner

A Freaky Music Hall

Barcelona / Go See
en af Martin Tønner /  Martin Tønner, 27. feb 2009

 

It was halfway through the concert when Harry Connick Jr. suddenly told his musicians to stop. The American bandleader had a long look around the rich decoration of Palau de la Música. Then he said: “I’m sure these sculptures are very important to your cultural heritage. But, Jesus, they really freak me out!”

Connick Jr. is right. Barcelona’s old music hall, build a hundred years ago by one of architect madman Gaudís colleagues, is a freaky place. At one side of the stage a bust of Beethoven is almost run over by a bunch of wild Wagner-valkyries in a wagon. Behind it a series of muses look like Inca-mummies buried halfway into the wall. And at the back of the hall two enormous Pegasus horses jump right out over your head.

The place is simply too much but that’s exactly what I love about it. A night at El Palau is like being part of a weird fairytale. And strange as it may seem it is also a perfect setting for all kinds of events. I have seen gigs as different as the Danish Radio Big Band, flamenco singer Diego ‘El Cigala’ and noise rockers The Tindersticks perform here and all were brilliant.

There is almost always something interesting on at El Palau and if not it’s worthwhile a visit anyway. You just close your ears and open your eyes.

Guided tours are available everyday from 9.00 to 15.30.

Palau de la Música Catalana, C/ Sant Pere Més Alt, s/n.                     

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Martin Tønner

A Paradise Of Hake

Barcelona / Go Eat
en af Martin Tønner /  Martin Tønner, 12. jan 2009


Mercat de la Boqueria                                                                                                  Photo: Adactio

When it comes to eating fish the Spanish don’t take advise from anyone. Except, maybe, the Japanese. So when my sister in law told me that she had discovered ‘El Barceloneta’ thanks to the bosses of her Japan-based company I knew it would be worthwhile.


Photo: Jlastras

Actually I had been living next to the place for years without paying much attention. The Barceloneta neighbourhood is stuffed with good fish restaurants and this particular – and quite pricy – one is located in an extremely ugly and not at all inviting building.

Once inside, though, the large open eating space is decorated with some taste – maritime, but avoiding the typical sailor man’s kitsch. Views of the yachts moored in Barcelona’s old port from the terrace-tables are picturesque. And most important: The food is brilliant.

I have to admit that during my so far 5-6 visits I have never come around to trying anything else but the hake (merluza). It is served ‘al ajillo’, with garlic, or ‘a la donostiarra’ with a sauce made of chilli and vinegar among other ingredients. But the main attraction is the hake itself, difficult to find tastier in this part of Spain.

According to other regulars the rest of menu cart is just as good with a long list of seafood and fish dishes cooked the traditional Spanish way but with modern elegance.

EL BARCELONETA. C/ L’Escar 22, Moll dels Pescadors. Tel.: (+34) 93 221 21 11. Metro: Barceloneta.

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Martin Tønner
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